Hamster Show on December 8, 2012

Hamster Wheel Gone Wrong (YouTube Video)

Roborovski hamsters are sooooo cute!

SOME THINGS TO KNOW AS A HAMSTER OWNER

All hamsters should be handled at a young age, so that they would be familiar to your scent, and would be easily tamed.

They should not be picked up by the scruff of the neck, because this contributes to aggression.

Placing hidey holes and wood blocks also lessen the aggressive behavior in hamsters towards the pet owner, and towards each other.

Young hamsters tend to become aggressive as they grow older if they experienced a hamster of a different breed invading their territory.

Hamsters of different breeds should be housed separately.

Dwarf hamsters like campbell, winter white and roborovski can be housed together after the weaning process given that they have good temperament. Also, this should only be temporary, and as much as possible should be avoided.

Syrian hamsters can be housed together if they're still young. If they have a good temperament, they can still be housed together after two months old if they show no sign of aggression towards each other, and if they are of the same sex. The default however is that they should be caged individually. If they are to be bred, do not place the male hamster inside the cage of the female. It should be the other way around, and do not keep the female in the cage of the male after they have mated.

Inbreeding should be avoided as much as possible because it might result to the following: smaller litter, infertility, deformities, diseases: diabetes is the most common disease that results from inbreeding, especially in dwarf hamsters.

The Eyeless Toothless White Campbell Dwarf Hamster

     The Eyeless Toothless White Hamster is a result of breeding a Ruby Eyed Mottled Hamster to another Ruby Eyed Mottled Hamster. With this kind of pairing, there is a 25% chance of getting an eyeless, toothless white hamster. It would be hard to identify if they are eyeless, toothless at first because hamsters are born with their eyes closed. However, once the other pups have opened their eyes already, you would notice that this kind of hamster doesn't have any eyes to open. This isn't really a problem because hamsters have poor eyesight and they rely mostly on their smell. The problem here is the lack of teeth. Because of this, the hamster cannot eat solid food, and would then be considerably poor in health. Most eyeless, toothless, white hamsters die before they are weaned, but those who survive,with proper care, can live up to 9 months of age. They don't grow big, and would always look like a pup, and would probably be bullied by other hamsters if placed inside a colony. To avoid this, it would be better to not pair the following:

Ruby Eyed Mottled with Ruby Eyed Mottled

Ruby Eyed Mottled with Albino w/ a history of Ruby Eyed Mottled

Mottled with Mottled (for beginners) >> if you are not sure if your hamsters are ruby eyed or not.

Syrian Hamster Colors

 The Basic Colors

NON-AGOUTIS/SELFS:

BLACK

BLACK EYED CREAM

DARK EARED WHITE

AGOUTIS:

DARK GREY

CINNAMON

EXTREME DILUTE

GOLDEN

RUST

SILVER GREY

LIGHT GREY

YELLOW

The Combination Colors

NON-AGOUTIS/SELFS:

BLACK EYED IVORY

BLACK EYED WHITE

BLUE MINK

CHAMPAGNE

CHOCOLATE

CHOCOLATE SABLE

DINGY BLACK

DOVE

FLESH EARED WHITE

MINK/CARAMEL

PALE EARED CREAM

RED EYED CREAM

RED EYED IVORY

SABLE

SILVER SABLE

YELLOW BLACK

AGOUTIS:

BEIGE

BLACK EYED BLONDE

BLACK EYED HONEY

BLONDE

COPPER

DARK GREY SABLE

HONEY

LIGHT GREY SABLE

LILAC

LILAC PEARL

SMOKE PEARL

The Coat Patterns

BANDED

DOMINANT SPOT

RECESSIVE DAPPLED

ROAN

WHITE BELLIED

PIEBALD

TORTOISESHELL

CALICO

more to come..

Hamster Photoshoot IV

Hamster Photoshoot III

Hamster Photoshoot II

Hamster Photoshoot I

HAMSTER HIBERNATION

Hibernation in Syrian Hamsters
 by Grant Forest

Hamsters are among the many animals that hibernate. Hibernation is defined as "The dormant state in which some animal species pass the winter. It is characterised by narcosis, and by sharp reduction in body temperature and metabolic activity and by a depression of vital signs. It is a natural physiological process in many warm-blooded animals. NOTE: summer dormancy corresponding to this winter dormancy is known as AESTIVATION."

There are 2 main theories about the evolution of hibernation. The traditional view was that primitive animals needed to hibernate to survive harsh environmental conditions and the ability to do so has been inherited by modern animals from their ancestors. An alternative theory says that it is size and diet that are the main determinants of hibernating ability. Modern bird groups and ancient mammal groups contain mainly small species that often rely on fluctuating food supply, whereas modern mammalian orders and ancient bird orders contain the largest species with low energy requirements for maintenance of body temperature. Hibernation in birds has apparently evolved separately from that in mammals, which tends to favour the size and diet theory.
2 types of hibernators are described - permissive and obligatory. Syrian hamsters fall into the permissive category; they have the option to hibernate depending on conditions of temperature and food supply. Obligatory hibernators do so regardless of conditions and are generally obese before entering hibernation.
Although temperature is undoubtedly an important factor in inducing winter hibernation, hamsters have been known to hibernate (or possibly aestivate) at temperatures of 14-20°C. Why would they do this? The natural range of the Syrian hamster exposes it to a yearly mean temperature of about 18°C, but this varies from 4-6°C in January to 28-30°C in July. The annual precipitation is about 400mm with partial vegetation in the autumn and winter months in conditions of lower temperature and higher rainfall. Drought is the norm between May and October and the hamster has a kidney which is adapted to prevent dehydration. These factors together suggest that the hamster may be an aestivator as well as a hibernator or that it may have been a hibernator originally in a more northerly range but migrated south and became an aestivator.

In either case, the ability to hibernate has been retained but the factors responsible for inducing hibernation in captivity are still not understood fully. Temperature is probably the most important factor. In experiments, the duration of cold required to induce hibernation decreases during November, December and January. In the spring, up to 3 months exposure to cold may be required to induce hibernation. Cold induces weight loss (in contrast to obligatory hibernators) and food storage. Prevention of hoarding is said to inhibit hibernation and is dangerous as the hamster may waken between hibernation ‘bouts’ and have no food supply. Although in a sense hamsters are among the most cold- resistant rodent species because of their ability to hibernate, they are not good hibernators! Nor is the hibernation response present in every hamster. When exposed to cold, some hamsters will eventually hibernate, some will never hibernate and some will hibernate but die of hypothermia. It’s very likely that the ability to hibernate is determined genetically and can be inherited like any other characteristic. Another factor that may be important in inducing hibernation is light. The effects of reduced light intensity and duration are additive with those of temperature - a hamster kept in the cold and dark is more likely to hibernate than one kept cold but in strong light for more than 12 hours out of 24. Other factors that may be important are food supply, isolation and stress but it’s difficult to assess the contribution of these because of the variability in the response to the main factor, cold. All that can be said is that the harsher the environment, the more likely hibernation becomes. The changes in an animal’s physiology during hibernation have attracted a great deal of interest among scientists. Doctors especially would dearly like to be able to induce a state of hibernation in humans for procedures such as open heart surgery. The organs of a hibernating animal are able to withstand extreme conditions, in particular a lack of oxygen that would cause cell death at normal body temperatures. They can also increase their temperature and survive the flood of toxic substances that are released when the cells become active again. Despite years of intensive research it’s not known precisely how they manage this.

From a practical point of view there are 3 main issues that may concern a hamster breeder. Firstly, how do I prevent my hamsters from hibernating, as time spent hibernating is time that could be spent breeding. Secondly, how do I awaken a hibernating hamster and lastly, how do I know when a hamster has died in hibernation?

The first point is addressed easily. Keep your hamsters warm and this means keep the temperature above 15°C, keep them well-lit for at least 12 hours a day, provide plenty of food and handle them regularly. Despite your best efforts, they may still hibernate. If it happens in the summer, they are probably aestivating (see above for details).

The second point is a matter of opinion. If left alone, hamsters will often hibernate for 2-3 days but if the temperature is very low then they may remain in hibernation for up to a week. One option is to leave them alone, provide plenty of food and water for when they waken up and try some of the measures outlined above to prevent them from re-hibernating. Alternatively, they can be stimulated just by picking them up and stroking them gently. They are very sensitive to tactile stimulation and this is said to speed up arousal. Forcing their body temperature up by applying heat or putting them in temperatures above 20°C can (at least in theory) have adverse effects on the natural arousal process and can’t be recommended. Spontaneous arousal and return to hibernation can occur within 12 hours and one technique to detect this is to put a couple of wood shavings on the hamster’s body. If, at the next check, the shavings are gone then the hamster must have woken up at some point.

One of the commonest stories told about hamsters is how they can miraculously "rise from the dead" and everyone knows someone whose hamster was dead and buried and then found at large in the garden or house some days later. The origin of these stories must be the hamster that is given up for dead but is in reality in deep hibernation. It can be very difficult to tell when a hamster has died in hypothermia. During deep hibernation the heart rate slows to as little as 4 beats per minute and the respiration can fall to only one breath every 2 minutes. The temperature of the cheek pouch will remain slightly above the ambient temperature. On examination, the hamster is curled up and the limbs feel more rigid than normal, but can still be extended slightly by gentle traction. On close inspection and following a gentle stroke the whiskers will be seen to twitch. This is the most consistent finding in a hibernator. Features that suggest that the animal has died are board-like rigidity of the limbs indicating rigor mortis and failure to waken or show any sign of life after 24 hours in an ambient temperature above 20°C. Low weight at entry into hibernation is associated with death in hypothermia.

If you are still unsure whether your hamster is dead or in hibernation, always consult your vet. He or she is likely to have experience of this scenario and can provide a specialist opinion.


References: The Golden Hamster - its Biology and Use in Medical Research Chapter 3 Hibernation and Effects of Temperature Roger A. Hoffman

INBREEDING AND LINEBREEDING

Let us first define what line-breeding is. line breeding is breeding animals related by two or more generations. for examples, cousins to cousins and grandmother to grandson is both considered "line breeding". Next, Inbreeding is breeding of two animals that are related by one generation. most common inbreeding people use is parent to offspring breeding.

Now, why do people Inbreed and Line-breed? inbreeding and line-breeding is used to "fix" a trait that is seen in the line. line breeding takes more time, and inbreeding will give you a faster result, but both practically has the same purpose.

You would always hear breeders and experts saying "DON'T INBREED/LINE-BREED". this is true for most of you for line-breeding and inbreeding fix not only the desirably trait, but also the undesirable ones. thus, if the line is known to have a slight deformity or health issue, line-breeding and inbreeding will magnify and accent the issue. also, excessive inbreeding and line-breeding will result to handicap and major deformities due to the small genetic pool that was used to create the offspring.

Lastly, WHO COULD INBREED/LINE-BREED? inbreeding and line-breeding should be left to the experts who knows every detail of the family's genetic pattern and health issues. the reason that this practice is left for the experts is that, most experts tend to have kept the individual's family for generations (usually even up to their great great parents), thus they will know what to expect and not to expect. they would be the ones to weigh the pros and cons of breeding this individual to a relative, and would decide if it is worth it or not.

INBREEDING AND LINE-BREEDING SHOULD NEVER BE USED AS A WAY TO SAVE MONEY AND SPACE TO BUY RARE AND PRICEY ANIMALS.

The Beauty of Peruvian Guinea Pigs

This is a bit off-topic, but I just want to share these photos of my Satin Peruvian Guinea Pig. He's lovely, right?

Cheers,

MasterHamster

HAMSTER HELL

This is a clay animation series about a kid and his hamsters. Even though there are some episodes that are kinda not for young viewers, there is actually truth in its content. Feel free to watch, and don't forget to subscribe to leehardcastle on Youtube!

Chapter 1

Chapter 2

Chapter 3

Chapter 4

Chapter 5

Chapter 6

 

Sexing Your Baby Hamsters

By far, the easiest way to determine the sex of your baby hamsters is by making them lie on their back and checking for rows of dots on their belly. This can be done when the hamsters are at least 2 weeks old. These rows of dots are the female hamsters' nipples (Male hamsters do not have nipples).

Once the hamsters are old enough though, you can determine their sex by looking at their genital area:

Try to get a clear look at the genital area of the hamster.

  >you can use a clear container, and allow the hamster to crawl inside. once inside, you can look at the underside of the container to check their genital area, or

>you can let the hamster climb in your hand, and then hold them flat against your palm using your finger, and gently lift them up so you can look at their genital area.

Female genitalia looks like a short letter Y, a short distance from the anus, while male genitalia is a small dot, placed a little further away from the anus.

It would be easier to sex the hamsters once they reach 5 weeks of age, because their genitals would have developed more, and the testis of the male hamsters would be more obvious. Also, the female hamsters' genitals would be more obvious.

*Image grabbed from www.myhammie.com

Diluting Gene - Hamsters

Dwarf Hamsters

In Russian Campbell dwarf hamsters there exists a similar diluting mutation where the normal colour is diluted to a light grey, the colour is known as Opal. Although its heredity hasn't been published yet, it is thought by breeding results to be the common diluting gene from other species, known as dilute (d) The coat colour is now quite well established. In 1994 it was imported from the USA to the Netherlands. There have been several reports that the Opal mutation in Europe wasn't the true mutation that occurred in pure Campbells dwarfs, but instead were feared to be hybridised Sapphire Winter Whites, and it is true that there have been a prevalence of hybrids floating around Europe. However the true origin of the Opal mutation was in the lab animals of Dr. Katherine E. Wynne-Edwards, a Professor of Biology and hamster behaviourist at Queen's University in Ontario, Canada. The mutation occurred in a colony of captive bred, but wild caught Campbells hamsters. In the USA today there are still many pure Opals, and breeders have never noticed health problems associated with this mutation. Even when Opal breeding began over a decade ago, breeders detected no health problems. The animals were of a good size and of good health and bred as readily as the Normal colour types of that time.
The main problem that breeders face with "dd" breeding in Campbells, is a gene combination which will also mask the ruby eyed mottled* gene in Campbells hamsters. It is known that some colours can mask other colours or patterns. A common example of this is Albino Campbells. The Albino lacks all pigment. So, if one parent of the Albino was a Mottled but carried Albino while the other parent was an Albino, you would expect to get some babies who appeared to be Albino but were genetically also Mottled. This effectively means that you cannot positively identify which Albinos were also Mottled by appearance alone. Thus, you would never want to breed an Albino from one of these litters to a Mottled as you would really be breeding a Mottled to a Mottled. As a result of this cross you can expect 25% of the babies to be eyeless, toothless whites who would die prematurely. So any pairings that create such a situation should be avoided. Another one of these gene combinations is the Dilute Platinum, which in most cases creates an entirely white hamster which will mask the Mottled gene. Therefore it is deemed very risky and unethical by breeders, to combine Platinum with the lethal Mottled gene. If Dilute Platinums appear, you need to treat them exactly as you would treat albino Campbells, i.e. never breed them to a Mottled and warn all potential owners/breeders of the situation.
*Genetically in Campbells hamsters the two Mottled genes are represented by the symbols Mo and Mi. Both genes were found in 1991 in the UK, and both genes are also dominant and give the same outward appearance. At present the Mo gene isn't available in the USA. This gene is the much safer non-lethal Mottled gene. The other gene, Mi, is the lethal Mottled gene and is also referred to as the Ruby-eyed Mottled Gene. This gene when bred correctly and responsibly produces healthy babies. When bred irresponsibly or through ignorance, deaths and physical deformities will arise as it is regarded as a lethal gene when homozygous. So in a double dose, this gene will produce a baby which is believed to be eyeless and toothless. Such babies will be snow white, will be smaller in size than its normal siblings, and will typically die at the age of 2-3 weeks. The Ruby-eyed Mottled gene in Campbells does not necessarily produce hamsters that have red/ruby eyes. You can have a Ruby-eyed Mottled Black hamster, and it will appear to have black eyes. The eyes will only appear ruby or red coloured when a light (torch) is shined on them.

SOURCE:
http://www.egerbil.com/dilution.html#dilute_dwarf_hamsters

Hamster Housing for Syrian Hamsters

Hamsters should be housed depending on their size:syrian hamsters should be housed in no less than 124 sq. in cages. (so pwede na nga yung 12x10 sa syrian, and 10L (95 sq in) bins for a pair of campbells. hehehe)

The best housing material for hamsters should be see-through. however a bare cage does not offer hamsters any shelters. This can be overcome by providing hidey holes and a shed and putting black tint on some parts of the bin/aqua walls.

Flooring: solid, w/ beddings are preferred over wire-mesh.

Cleaning the bedding: completely cleaning the hamster cage of bedding stresses the hamster. spot-cleaning is actually really preferred, as the hamster should be able to smell something familiar.

Nesting material should be readily provided for pregnant hamsters.

At night, hamsters tend to explore their surroundings. because of this, tubes are useful for hamsters as they help resolve aggressive behavior such as growling, hissing, destroying the water bottle. soft pieces of wood should be provided so that the hamster will not have overgrown teeth, and satisfy their need for gnawing.
 
SOURCE: http://labanimals.awionline.org/pubs/cq02/Cq-hamst.html

Summarized by: MasterHamster

CAMPBELL HAMSTER COLORS

Hamster Colors that are only Available in BE (Black Eye):

1. Black
2. Blue
3. Lilac Fawn
4. Agouti
5. Opal
6. Chocolate

Hamster Colors that are only Available in RE (Red Eye):

1. Albino
2. Blue Fawn
3. Beige
4. Dark Beige
5. Champagne
6. Dove
7. Blue Beige

Hamster Colors that are available in both RE and BE:

1. Argente
2. Lilac
3. Dilute Platinum

AGOUTI COLORS (Hamster Colors that have arches (side markings)
1. Agouti
2. Opal
3. Argente (BE & RE)
4. Blue Fawn
5. Lilac Fawn
6. Beige
7. Blue Beige

SOLID COLORS (Hamster Self Colors)
1. Black
2. Blue
3. Lilac (BE & RE)
4. Dark Beige
5. Champagne
6. Chocolate
7. Dove
8. Albino
9. DP (Dilute Platinum)

HAMSTER BREEDING CAUTION

Do Not Breed:

Ruby Eye Mottled to Ruby Eye Mottled hamsters
Ruby Eye Mottled (w/ Albino parent) to Albinos
Ruby Eye Mottled to Albino (w/ REM parent)

Why?

Because REM x REM = 25% Eyeless Toothless White hamsters, and
REM (with Albino parent) x Albino = a percentage of REM masked by Albino
REM x Albino (with REM parent) = a chance of 25% ETW offspring

Also, do not breed hamsters that have deformities, for all the obvious reasons.

CAMPBELL HAMSTER GENETICS

First of all, please notice the following genetic codes for each hamster color:

WILD COLOR (Dominant):
Agouti - A

SINGLE GENE COLORS (Recessive):
Black - aa
Black Eyed Argente - bb
Albino - cc
Opal - dd
Argente - pp

TWO-GENE COLORS (Recessive):
Blue - aa dd (Black + Opal)
Dove - aa pp (Black + Argente)
Blue Fawn - dd pp (Opal + Argente)
Beige - bb pp (BEA + Argente)
Lilac Fawn - bb dd (BEA + Opal)
Chocolate - aa bb (Black + BEA)

THREE-GENE COLORS (Recessive):
Red Eye Lilac - aa dd pp (Black + Opal + Argente)
Black Eye Lilac - aa bb dd (Black + BEA + Opal)
Dark Beige - aa bb pp (Black + BEA + Argente)
Blue Beige - bb dd pp (BEA + Opal + Argente)

Disregarding the pattern genes for now, let us try to guess the genes of the parents using the litter produced.

For example, Hamster A is a blue female and Hamster B is a blue fawn male. Bred together, they produced 8 pups. 4 opals, 2 blues, and 2 blue fawns.

If Hamster A is a pure blue female (aa dd), and Hamster B is a pure blue fawn male (dd pp), they are supposed to produce 8 opals [dd], 2 of which will have unpaired black genes [a_] and two will have unpaired argente genes [p_]).

[Why? Because for every pair of genes the parents have, each offspring will inherit one. if a hamster has aa dd, he/she can only give one a, and one d. The other parent having dd pp can only give one d, and one p.]

However, in the scenario given, since they produced 2 blues and 2 blue fawns instead, the closest guess we can have of their parents' genes is the following:

Hamster A = aa dd p_
the color blue appears because the argente gene is unpaired.

Hamster B = dd pp a_
the color blue fawn appears because the black gene is unpaired.

PS: This is only an example.

-MasterHamster

Hamster Accessories

WHEELS

*photo grabbed from http://www.transoniq.com/*

Wheels should be made from one solid piece and should not have spaces between rungs as this can cause injuries to the hamsters' legs. For Syrian hamsters, the wheel should be at least 8 inches in diameter. The Wodent Wheel as shown above is very much recommended for hamsters, both Syrian and dwarfs, although it is a bit expensive (around P800).

HAMSTER TRAILS

Hamster trails are good for hamsters especially if you want to see them run around a lot. These should be assembled and fit properly to avoid hamsters getting out of the cage, as well as preventing accidents from happening (like feet getting stuck). These should also be cleaned often, and checked for cracks and breakages.

More to come: Hamster Baths, Hamster House, Mineral Stone

Housing Hamsters

There are different kinds of hamster cages you can use but the three I will list here are the ones that I think are best, based on my experience.

 

1. PLASTIC BINS
 

These are available in almost every hardware store. For dwarf hamsters, you can use at least 10-12L plastic bins. You can drill holes on the lid for more ventilation, and for attaching a water bottle to one side of the bin. The main advantage of this is that it is cheaper and lighter to carry / easier to clean than aquarium tanks. You can also stack them to save space. You just need to make sure that there are enough holes on the sides for the hamsters not to get suffocated.

2. WIRE CAGES

Wire cages come in various sizes and setup. The ones I would recommend though are the single/double floor type with collapsible wire frames and without pull-out trays. These kinds of wire cages are easy to clean and assemble. Three-floor cages are unnecessary and can just cause accidents to your hamsters. The plastic base for wire cages should be at least 2-3" high to avoid lots of wood shavings littered outside the cage. Pull-out trays should be avoided as much as possible because they make cleaning harder, and accumulated hamster pee and dirt seep through the sides.

3. AQUARIUM

 

An aquarium tank should be at least 5 gallons, with no sharp edges at the corners or cracked sides and a well-fitting top with no gaps or holes. The lid should be secure and well-ventilated, with a wire mesh top instead of airholes, which do not provide enough air for your hamster to breathe normally. The aquarium’s advantages are that it minimizes odors and retains bedding and food. It will also your hamster safe and confined, as long as the top is secure. The disadvantage is that there can be a lack of ventilation, and it must be cleaned often so that odors do not build up in the cage. Aquariums are bulky and can be heavy. (From: Small Angels Rescue)

Among the three hamster cages mentioned above, the one I would recommend is the plastic bin cage. There are a lot of ways you can personalize your bin cage, and it is cost effective.

 

*photo grabbed from chinchillanation.com*

Winter Whites

One of the current hamster breeds that most hamster owners in the Philippines are craving for. This cute little dwarf hamster is a close relative to the Campbell dwarf hamster, except that it has a rounder face, and shorter ears. This is the only known hamster breed that can be crossed with the Campbell, but it has been said that hybrids of the two are known to develop diabetes.

The coat of the Djungarian (Winter White) hamster is less woolly than that of the Campbell's dwarf hamster, and apart from the normal colouring, they can be coloured pearl, sapphire, mandarin, blue, argente, yellow blue fawn, camel, brown, cream, merle and umbrous The head length of the Djungarian hamster is 70 to 90 millimetres in length, the length of the tail is five to 15 millimetres, and the hind legs are 11 to 15 millimetres. The body weight changes dramatically throughout the year. It is at its lowest from July to August^. In males, the body weight ranges from 19 grams (0.67 oz) to 45 grams (1.6 oz), and in females, 19 grams (0.67 oz) to 36 grams (1.3 oz). In human care, they are slightly heavier. The average lifespan of the Djungarian hamster is one to three years of age in captivity, though they can live longer. In the wild, they are known to live as little as one year. (Exceprt from Wikipedia)

It has been said that it is easier to breed Winter White hamsters and that they breed all year round, but I think it still depends on the climate of the country they are in. The easiest way to ship these hamsters is if you buy them from nearby countries, as they have a bigger chance of travel survival. Singapore and Thailand are two of the nearest countries who abundantly sell them.

List of Food that are Safe/Unsafe For Our Hamsters

Here is a list of foods that are safe for your hamster to eat. Remember that sugar should be avoided with Campbell's dwarves as they are prone to diabetes so no fruits, corn, peas or carrots for them or anything containing alot of sugars.All new foods should be introduced slowly to avoid upsetting the hamster's stomach and/or causing diarrhea. A good way to introduce them is to give a piece of fruit/veggie one day skip a day or two then give them another piece of fruit/veggie skip a day or two etc. once their systems get used to that amount you can slowly add on more days.Don't go overboard with it though.I'd say two a day is the max it should go. That 2 daily being one fruit/veggie and one protein/other food. Make sure you rinse the fruits and vegetables off with water and let them sit at room temp for a min or two before giving them to the hamster(s). If anything is gotten from outside you need to be absolutely positive that there are no pesticides on or around it. If you're not sure on that it's best to stay away from wild plants/veggies/fruits.

FRUITS

• Apple (seedless)
• Banana
• Blackberries
• Blueberries
• Cantaloupe.
• Cherries
• Cranberries
• Grapes(seedless)
• Lychee
• Mango
• Melon
• Peaches (no stone)
• Plums (no pits)
• Raspberries
• Raspberry Leaves (helpful for diarrhea)
• Strawberries

VEGGIES

• Asparagus
• Bean Sprouts
• Bok Choy
• Broccoli
• Cabbage (Limited amounts)
• Carrots
• Cauliflower
• Celery
• Chard
• Chestnuts
• Chickweed
• Chicory
• Clover
• Corn on the Cob
• Cucumbers
• Dandelion Leaves
• Endive
• Green Beans
• Kale
• Parsnips
• Peas
• Radicchio
• Romaine Lettuce
• Spinach
• Squash
• Sweet Potatoes
• Sweet bell Peppers
• Swiss Chard
• Turnip
• Water Chestnuts
• Water Cress
• Zucchini

MEATS AND PROTEINS FOODS

• Cooked Ground Beef (Rinse well in hot water to remove any grease)
• Cooked Chicken or Turkey (Steamed or baked)
• Low Fat Cottage Cheese
• Fish Cod (Cooked removing bones and skin)
• Grasshoppers (Pet Shop)
• Mealworms (Pet Shop)
• Crickets (Pet Shop)
• Bread(whole grain no white bread) soaked in milk ( Low Fat, Skim, Soy)
• Eggs ( boiled or scrambled)
• Plain Tofu
• Plain Low Fat Yogurt
• Dog Biscuits (No Garlic, onion, or onion powder)
• Monkey Chow
• Lab Blocks

OTHER FOODS

• Buckwheat
• Baby Food(low sugar and no onion or garlic)
• Cheese (mild cheeses in moderation)
• Cooked Plain Brown Rice
• Cooked Pasta(Wheat or Spinach would be better)
• Dry toast(Also helpful for diarrhea
• Flax seed
• Low or Sugarless Cereals
• Pumpkin Seeds (unsalted
)
• Nuts (No almonds)
• Sesame Seeds
• Soybeans(Roasted no salt)
• Squash seeds
• Lentils
• Oatmeal(dry or soaked in skim or lowfat milk)
• Nutritional Yeast
• Bran and Wheat Germ (Refrigerated goes bad fast)
• Peanuts (unsalted)
• Alfafa
• Unsalted Popcorn (no butter)

FOODS TO AVOID

• Almonds (Contains Cyanic Acid)
• Apple Seeds
• Canned food
• Chocolate
• Candies
• Chips and Junk food
• Pork Products
• Potatoes (Raw)
• Raw Kidney Beans
• Eggplant
• Fool's Parsley
• Grape Seeds
• Avocado (Contains Cardiac Glycosides)
• Raw Rhubarb
• Tomato leaves
• Oranges or Tangerines(no citrus fruits)
• No watermelon (the water content is high causes diarrhea)
• Cherry Stone
• Peach Stone & Leaves
• Apricot Stone
• Lemon or Lime
• Jams and jellies
• Spices
• Garlic
• Onions
• Leeks
• Scallions
• Chives
• Pickles

GRABBED FROM: HAMSTERRIFIC

SAFE AND UNSAFE MATERIALS FOR HAMSTERS

Safe resources:
Aspen
White birch (lolly sticks)
Willow
alfalfa
Rocks (sterilized in boiling water and baked in an oven to dry. large enough so the hammies are unable to pouch them)
Toilet rolls
Plain paper (no ink or colourings)
Plain card and corigated card (again no ink or colourings)
Non toxic glue- pva, glue gun etc
Toilet roll
Poplar plywood
Birch plywood (more difficult to cut than poplar but more readily availible. plywood is NOT suitable for chinchillas due to the glue used)
Egg cartons (clean and free from raw egg stains)
Toilet roll paper mache (wet toilet roll with water molded over glass bowls/cups etc and left to dry to create tubes and dome shaped homes. Removed from glass before being given to hamsters)

Unsafe materials
Ceder
Pine
Oak
Cotton
Paints and glues without a "non toxic verification" lable
Cotton
Straw (as in the substrate) sharp and possible damage to cheeks (by Demecat)
Hay (mites)
Net fabrics where feet may get tangled

BY: GIZMO GONZALES

Locally Available Food Mixes That Are Good For Your Hamster

1. Super Concentrate - OK rin naman pero mostly wheat grains. Limited choices for hamsters but contains no peas or beans. Same specs as Super Conditioner, but agai, more wheat. Average cost: P25/kg
2. Purina Bio 300 / 200 - Best type of feed for all small animals. Balanced content, fortified and in pelleted form. So hindi magiging choosy mga hamsters with this. The only downside is this feed can make your hamsters' poop and pee smell a bit bad due to the vitamins and minerals added to it. Average cost: P27/kg
3. Vitakraft Menu For Hamsters - The MOST popular brand sa mga prestige hamster food. Basically, well-balanced. Very wide variety ng contents and fortified with vitamins and mineral. Also controls the odor of your hamsters' excretions, hence, less odor. Downside is hindi lahat ng hamsters, gusto 'to. Also, recently, masyadong madami yung alfalfa pellets sa packs nila, but the hamsters seem to eat them though. Downside is may mejo malalaking pieces na bilog, which can be difficult for them to gnaw, hence, iniiwan nalang nila. Good for their teeth rin yung gnawing pieces. Average cost: P200/kg
4. Versele-Laga Hamster Crispy - Very rare 'to but mas mura compared sa Vitakraft. Very wide variety, more than Vitakraft actually. Fortified with 9 vitamins and minerals and with odor control plus flora-stimul (good bacteria) for digestion. My hamsters love this pero may mga big pieces na I cut up nalang. Balanced yung mix, alfalfa pellets, nuts, seeds, grains, crunchies, crispies, veggies and fruits. Downside, mejo mahirap hanapin and magastos kasi they tend to hoard this food. Average cost: P150/kg
5. Pet-Link / Jolly Hamster - Eto yung "Chin-chan-soo" ang tawag ko. Brands that come from Hong Kong / Singapore. Balanced variety and merong added treats na rin. May gelatin, biscuits, and dried fruits na kasama as treats. Fortified with Vit. A. Good brand naman and smells good too. Hamsters like this but they tend to leave the split-peas. Walang pellets, purely seeds, grain, nuts lang. Downside, sa Cartimar lang available pero worth trying. Average cost: P120/k

CONTRIBUTED BY: CAEZARSALAD

Flight of the Hamsters

Hi guys,

I just found this game, Flight of the Hamsters and thought it would be nice to check it out.

Cheers,

Master Hamster

ONLINE HAMSTER COMMUNITY FOR FILIPINOS

Hi guys, we have created an online hamster community for us Filipinos, and would appreciate everyone to sign-up and make the site alive. Just follow this link here:


Hamsters Inc., (Philippines)

and sign up!

Thank you!

-Master Hamster

HAMSTER PREGNANCY

How do I know if my hamster is pregnant?

Generally, there is no sure way to tell if a hamster is pregnant as each hamster manifests pregnancy in a different way. But, there are a few signs to be on the look for. First, the size of the expecting mother. The pelvic are of the hamster will appear larger especially on the last 3-5 days of her pregnancy. The hamster will ofteb bear a shape of a pear. Second, the female's nipples will become more pronounced or visible. This is not always a sure sign as some hamsters' nipples do not show until suckled or some hamsters' nipples are always showing. Third, a pregnant female hamster may show aggression towards her partner/cagemate and owner. Fourth, they start making nests. Though it is not always the case. Fifth, the expecting mother will hoard more and eat/drink more than the usual. And sixth, if the male doesn't mount the female or if the female refuses to mate with the male.

How long is a hamster pregnant until it gives birth?

The gestation period of a hamster varies on its breed. For Syrian hamsters, usually around 16 – 18 days. For Dwarf Russian Winter White and Dwarf Russian Campbell’s hamsters, 18 – 21 days. For Roborovski hamsters, 21 – 30 days. For the dwarf species, complications often arise when the hamster carries its babies too long. A Syrian hamster can have up to 6 – 24 pups, for the dwarfs, up to 4 – 14, and the Roborovski, 3 – 10. Although, bigger and smaller litters are not rare.

When can I separate the pups from their mother?

For the first 12 days of their lives the young cannot control their body temperature, so an adult needs to be on the nest and the father or siblings are vital for the care of the offspring. The babies cannot grow if they are cold and as litters are born in such quick succession, they need to grow fast. About 11 days, the pups will start to open their eyes and eat solid food. At 14 days, they are fully capable of living by themselves but it is advised to let the pups stay with the mother until they are 4 weeks of age so they may learn the basic survival instincts.

BY: CAEZARSALAD

DIFFERENT HAMSTER BREEDS IN THE PHILIPPINES

Syrian [Mesocricetus auratus] (Also known as Teddy Bear, Golden Hamster) – The largest of all pet hamsters and the most common in pet shops. They can range from 5” – 8” in length. They are the best beginner hamsters as once tamed, they are forever tamed. They are less likely to bite. They come in many colors and coat types. This hamster is not very social towards other hamsters as they may fight to death if housed in groups, thus, it is most recommended to keep only one Syrian Hamster in per cage because they are very territorial.

Campbell’s Dwarf [Phodopus campbelli] - They are the biggest of the dwarf species, ranging from 4” – 5” in length. They have a reputation to be biters but this is not entirely true. Though among the breeds, they are likely to bite when they feel threatened or annoyed as this hamster moves quite slow. They come in a wide variety of colors and coat patterns. They also possess a dorsal stripe that runs through its back. This hamster is quite sociable and enjoys company, given that they grew up together, especially in same sex groups.

Roborovski [Phodopus roborovskii] (Also known as Desert Hamster) – The smallest hamster known to date, reaching only 3” in maximum length. They are noted for not having a dorsal stripe, unlike other dwarf species. They are also noted for their cute faces, puffy noses, long whiskers, and their white eyebrow-like patches above each eye. They are very fast, and not intended for beginners and children. They are also very social hamsters, and prefer living in same sex or mixed sex groups. Taming them can also take some time but they almost never bite. They do not have much coat variations as they are fairly new to the pet trade.

BY: CAEZARSALAD

A-Bao Dreaming

Here is a video from Youtube I just want to share. It's a golden hamster sleeping, and apparently dreaming. Enjoy everyone!

PETS 101 - Hamsters

Hi guys! Here is a video from Youtube that features hamsters as pets. I hope you enjoy this one!

-Master Hamster

Introduction to Pet Hamsters

Basically, hamsters are rodents. They look like mice w/o tails, and much much cuter! In the Philippines, three kinds are being sold in most pet shops.: the long-haired Syrian hamster (also called Teddy Bear Hamster), the Campbell dwarf hamster, and the Roborovski dwarf hamster. The short-haired Syrian hamster (also called Golden Hamster) is also available, but only in a selected few stores.

The Syrian hamster is the easiest ones to breed, as they can give birth to more pups compared to the dwarf hamsters. They are also the easiest to tame, and once you've tamed them, they never forget. Adults measure from 5 to 7 inches long, and can live up to 3 years at most. The average number of litter they can produce is around 8-10 pups.

The Campbell dwarf hamster is a bit harder to tame, and have the tendency to nip or bite. They are smaller than the Syrian hamster, being about only 4-5 inches long, and can live to an average of 2 years. The average number of litter they can produce is around 5-6 pups.

The Roborovski dwarf hamster is the smallest of the three hamster breeds i mentioned, and the fastest ones. The are really cute, and look like hamsters with brows and mustaches. They measure around 2-4 inches long, and can live up to 3 years. They are also the hardest to breed, and have a longer gestation period.

All three types of pet hamsters are very cute, and easy on the pocket, but it depends on the preference of  the pet owner which one they want to keep as each kind has their own unique characteristics everyone can enjoy.

Welcome to Hamsters Inc., (Philippines) !

This page is dedicated to hamsters, and hamster lovers not only in the Philippines but around the world. Trivia, instructional videos, and other information regarding hamsters will be posted here for our readers to enjoy and learn from.

We hope that you enjoy visiting our page and support our cause for promoting hamsters in the Philippines.

Thank you very much!

-Master Hamster